All Red, White & Blue

by Kathy Bramhall

I’m writing this on July 1 thinking about our Nation’s Birthday.  I was inspired by some tall healthy looking blue and red Salvias I found at Wal-Mart which I bought to plant in the back of a new flower border; for the front I added white petunias.  Presto!  I have a Liberty border!  I’ve decided to check out what else I can find in our National Colors—flowers, shrub and trees, fruits and vegetables.

First of all there are lots of red, white, and red and white roses—red Altissimo, Falstaff, Robin Hood, a striped red and white appropriately  named “Fourth of July”.  White is easy too—mini Gourmet Popcorn, Iceberg, Sally Holmes, Sombreuil, Whisper are just some of mine.  Blue is a little harder, there are several called blue—Blue for You, Blue Heaven, Blue Moon, Blue Ribbon, Blue Suede Shoes—however ARS correctly lists the color as mauve.

Other reds—tomatoes of course! Strawberries, little red potatoes, rhubarb and chard are just some of the vegetables we can easily grow here.  For flowers that handle our 100°+ summer temperatures I stand by red Lagerstroemia (Crepe Myrtle), red oleander,  and the plain old fashioned reliable—zinnias.

White - I have little tiny white alyssum, tall white hollyhocks, white irises and White Diamond lilies, white Shasta Daisies, white lace-cap Hydrangeas, white viburnum (Snowball) —plus the newer white marigolds.  Our Robinia (Locust) tree had lovely scented white clusters early this spring.  Now our magnolia is wearing its large white blossoms. 

Blue—now blue is a little harder to come by.  We say we have “blue” roses and petunias but they really tend to be more lavender or mauve.  Some of the older lilacs and wisteria are closer to blue, than lilac.  The native Ceanothus can be close to blue. Some of the tall bearded iris are blue, as well as some tree-climbing Clematis.  Cedars, Eucalyptus, Hosta, Junipers, and Blue Fescue are called blue but are more silver. Oh, I planted a couple of blueberry plants this spring too!  My friend Maud Slionys just planted several lovely sky blue Plumbago shrubs in the driveway circle; I consider these truly blue. 

Add your own research to mine and celebrate Red, White & Blue all year!  Stay safe.

The Red Bluff Garden Club is affiliated with the Cascade District Garden Clubs, California Garden Clubs, Inc; Pacific Garden Clubs and National Garden Clubs, Inc.

By
LeeAnn Shnayer

I lost my Gardener’s Journal. It is a history book of my garden in Chico. I carried
it often into the garden to be sure I marked a correct planting spot, but I misplaced it. I
loved that book as much as I loved the garden.
For a beginning gardener, a journal asks good questions. Mine also included a
space to write about mentors that inspired me to garden.
I wrote that my dad was a tidy vegetable gardener. When he was a boy in northern
Germany his family was very proud of the compost pile located at the front of the house.
He and his brothers would squash it down with their wooden shoes.
As an adult in Chico he sold NH3 fertilizer to the North Valley farmers. He was
famous in our neighborhood for growing his great corn. He took a picture of me when I
was four years old sitting in the water ditch joyously naked. (I still love mud to this day.)
When I was a young adult, I moved to San Francisco and met my mother’s
cousin. Gertrude was a passionate gardener.
She and her three sons hauled sand and soil into her back yard year after year to
build her garden. She and her best friend Elise collected cuttings and seeds because
Gertrude was supporting her family. They both taught me how to propagate.
From their cuttings, I started my own Gertrude’s and Elise’s flower garden along
both sides of our Chico driveway in their honor.
Gertrude took me to the Sunset Gardens in Menlo Park. She visited me during my
first year of work in Canby, located in Modoc County.
We drove my old 58 Chevy truck into the wilderness to get flat lava stepping
stones for her garden. We drove up ravines, tilted sideways, bumped our heads on the
roof, got lost and had a wonderful time together.
The journal also had room for maps. Grids on some pages were to help with
planning. My duplicate map was accordion folded and kept inside the book to be used
separately. Because the journal was so used, the pages were beat up with smudges, pencil
marks and mud spots.
The journal included pages to list plants and tools purchased. I enjoyed the pages
for listing blooms month to month adding the new blooms regularly. It also included
great quotes to encourage my own. I even wrote an obituary and haiku for a favorite
plant.
When I found my journal, a week later in the wet compost pile, slugs and snails
had chewed on it. Now the book has the look of great character, weathered just like the
garden where it belongs.
Since I have left my childhood home in Chico and moved to Red Bluff, I will
deliver the garden journal and a photo album of the house and its’ history to the new
owners where it belongs.
Guess I need a new journal!
The Red Bluff Garden Club is affiliated with the Cascade District Garden Club;
California Garden Clubs, Inc.; Pacific Region Garden Clubs; and National Garden Clubs
Inc.

PLANT VEGETABLES & FLOWERS

By Lorna Bonham

PLANT:

     April is another great month to plant. All warm season vegetables and flowers can be planted in April, either from seeds sown directly into the soil, from your own transplants or from nursery bedding plants. 

             Below are a few suggestions that may increase your planting success.

     Make your transplants after all danger of frost has passed which is usually on or after the third week of April in the valley areas of Tehama County.     

     If purchasing plants, it’s best to get six packs which are more economical and rapidly catch up to 4-inch plants.

     Plant seeds at a depth of twice the diameter of the seed. Thin emerged plants according to directions on the seed packet.    

     If you are growing seedlings, damping off disease can be a problem. What appears to be healthy seedlings, can suddenly wilt and a whole flat can die in a matter of days. There will also be a pinched-in area on the stem at soil level.

     It is easier to prevent damping off disease than to cure it. Start with clean equipment by sterilizing flats and other tools and equipment with one and a half cups bleach to a gallon of water or a ten percent solution.

     Use a sterilized seed-starting mix or potting mix from a fresh bag.

     Keep flats in a warm location. A light mist can be sprayed on the seeds to keep them damp but slow down the spray once the seedlings are all up.

     Let the top layer of soil feel dry to the touch before watering again and don’t mist the flats between watering.

     To prevent disease and insects which can be carried over in the soil from the vegetable garden, remember not to plant the same or closely related plants in the same area where they had been planted in the last two or three years.

     Don’t crowd transplants. Space them according to directions on the seed packet.

     Drip irrigation encourages root growth and is the most efficient. Check the moisture in the root zone, not at the soil surface.

     Use the least toxic chemicals such as a spray of water to remove bugs, insecticidal soap, Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), or horticultural oils.

     Insecticidal soap can be made at home by using one or two tablespoons of liquid soap, not detergent, to a quart of water. Don’t make it too strong or foliage will be lost.

     Mulch, mulch, mulch to conserve water and prevent weed germination.

     GARDEN SHOW:

     Their will be a Home and Garden Show at the Tehama District Fair Grounds on May 1-2. In conjunction with the Home and Garden Show, the Red Bluff Garden Club will hold their 49th Annual Flower Show.

     Red Bluff Garden Club meetings are open to the public. The program on Tuesday, March 30, at 12:45 p.m. will be ‘Arrangements and Table Settings’ by Erlyne Owens, from Cascade Arrangers’ Guild.  For more information, see the Web page at redbluffgardenclub.com or call 527-4578 or 384-1913.

     The Red Bluff Garden Club is affiliated with National Garden Clubs Inc., California Garden Clubs Inc., Pacific Region and Cascade District.

READING FOR THE HOT SUMMER

 

By Kathy Bramhall

 

Summer’s hot days may really be here.  When it is so hot outside you can’t garden, I recommend improving your gardening knowledge by reading.  Here are some book reviews. 

 

My favorite is Sunset’s Western Garden Book.  There is more information in it than anyone can absorb.  I refer to it as often as I refer to my Bible—in fact I consider it my “Gardening Bible”.

 

I recommend these 3 books on roses, besides the American Rose Magazine which I receive with my American Rose Society membership, A Rose by Any Name, The Little-Known Lore and Deep-Rooted History of Rose Names by Douglas Brenner & Stephen Scanniello is fun and informative; same goes for Pink Ladies & Crimson Gents—Portraits & Legends of 50 Roses by Molly & Don Glentzer.  A 3^rd is Old Roses & English Roses by the renowned rose breeder David Austin.

 

Garden Club President Sharon Kessey added a book review to our monthly Friends & Flowers newsletter.  Sharon’s reading is boundless. 

 

In January she wrote: The 1997 edition of Classic Roses: An Illustrated Encyclopedia and Grower’s Manual of Old Roses, Shrub Roses and Climbers, by Peter Beales, is in the Red Bluff Library; includes descriptions and photos of about 1000 old roses; a height and color chart; many ideas for how to use roses; and chapters on cultivation, propagation and planting techniques, and pest and disease controls. 

 

In February she reviewed Butterfly Gardening: Creating Summer Magic in Your Garden by the Xerces Society & The Smithsonian Institution; with chapters by ten different authors who provide information on how and why to attract butterflies, garden designs ideas, photos, etc. The appendix lists nectar plants and specific butterflies and what plants they need.  

 

In March Sharon wrote: “The fictional mystery stories about herbalist and ex-lawyer China Bayles, by Susan Wittig Albert, Lavender Lies, Thyme of Death, Rosemary Remembered, Mistletoe Man, etc, incorporate some medicinal and therapeutic uses of plants, include occasional delicious-sounding recipes, and give information about growing and using herbs.”

 

April’s review was on Gardening When It Counts: Growing Food in Hard Times by Steve Solomon, the founder of Territorial Seeds.  It has loads of information on water, seeds, insects and diseases, how to sharpen tools, and much more, plus drawings of roots, and analysis of many commonly-grown vegetables and how best to grown and store them. 

 

Gardening and reading what more can you want! 

 

Red Bluff Garden Club is affiliated with Cascade District Garden Club; California Garden Clubs, Inc; Pacific Region Garden Clubs; and National Garden Clubs Inc.

"Cone Crazy"
By Cathy Wilson

Echinacea, a North American genus in the Daisy family, is well known as the coneflower. They are hardy, durable, native perennials. They withstand drought, poor soils, heat, deer and neglect. They are a bright addition to sunny borders blooming throughout summer into fall. Their thick sturdy stems rarely need staking. Blooms last well cut or dried. The seeds in the large cone at the heart of the flower head provide nourishment for the birds. Butterflies are enticed by their fragrance. Their bright, nectar rich flowers draw monarchs, swallowtails and other winged species.

There are dwarf Echinaceas reaching to 18-24 inches and there are double Echinaceas. There are so many choices to choose from and there is certainly the one just perfect for your garden.

The Red Bluff Garden Club is affiliated with the Cascade District Garden Clubs; California Garden Clubs, Inc; Pacific Region Garden Clubs; and National Garden Clubs. Inc.

Gardening is a Joy

 

By Diane Cleland

 

            Quite simply, gardening is a joy. It occupies your summer hours and winter dreams. The practice of tending a garden can be a full-time preoccupation or an occasional escape to the outdoors. The choices are wide, and they are all yours.

            Although it may seem an extravagant claim, gardening is by far the most popular outdoor hobby in the world. It appeals to people of all ages in all places.

            It provides opportunities to observe closely the ways of nature. It invites you to view, firsthand, the wonders of growth and the excitement of every gardening season.

Under your guidance, a packet of annual seeds can grow, sprout to mature plants, flower, and return to seed again. The perennials you plant, once established, will bloom gloriously through a series of summers. Trees and shrubs you select will shape your overall plan by providing a privacy screen, shading a play area,  softening harsh architectural lines, or adding dazzling spring or fall color.

            Gardening is like most hobbies in that you can get as involved as you like. But if you are at all serious about gardening knowledge of your soil and adequate watering are essential.

            Good soil is as important to your garden as a good foundation is to your house. There is one big difference, though. With your soil, you do not have to be satisfied with what you have. If you find that you do not have ideal, or even good garden soil, you can improve it.

            Most gardening books will tell you that an ideal garden soil is deep, loose, fertile, well drained, and high in organic matter. Do not be discouraged if your soil doesn’t fit that description, few garden soils do.

            If you find the soil to be less than ideal, you can either leave it as is or try to improve it. Before you start making changes, find out what you have. And even if you decide not to make changes, getting to know your soil will help you decide what plants will grow best in your garden.

            Watering requirement – High temperature and low humidity cause plants to give off huge quantities of water into the air, creating a drain on soil reserves. A large mature tree releases as much as 200 gallons of water a day. Small plants release much less, but the actual quantity surprises many people.

            The average tree, shrub, or flower can grow without regular feeding or cultivation, and even survive several insect attacks. But let it go dry for only a short time, and growth is stunted severely, or the plant dies. Plants require water for every physiologic function, so adequately supply yours with moisture.

            Each successful project will generate new ideas and lively challenges. Your only obligation is to enjoy the beauty with your family and friends and to pass on the joy of gardening to all who ask.

            Red Bluff Garden Club is affiliated with Cascade District Garden Clubs; California Garden Clubs, Inc. Pacific Region Garden Clubs; and National Garden Cubs, Inc.

______________________

Bare Bones

 

By Cathy Wilson

 

     Anyone who studies garden design knows that a garden needs structure and “bones” .These bones provide the focal points of interest.  Some of these bones are living and some are structural. They are all usually permanent, and; can include evergreen or deciduous trees, ornamental shrubs, hedges, walkways, arbors, fencing, fountains, benches or statuary.

     Winter is the best time of year to analyze your garden beds because there are no distractions from deciduous annuals and perennials. These areas have now become bare. One must simply focus on the entire landscape as a whole. Be sure to include the borrowed views of you neighboring landscapes as they blend in with yours and create an overall vista. From this panorama, you are able to decide what needs to be added or subtracted from you design plan.

    

    Conifers and broadleaf evergreens are the obvious bones but deciduous trees and shrubs are also skeletons that can provide winter interest. Some have interestingly colored or peeling bark, some have catkins, while others are weeping or contorted. Visit your local nursery to check out what is available before they leaf out so that you can appreciate these bare essentials.

     When we are lucky enough to get that sunny, warm day to walk throughout our gardens, take the time to critique areas that need reassessment—is it a different height, depth, form, pattern, or texture that you need to create a more pleasing area?    

     Maybe a new pathway is in order to improve function for moving from one space to another.  Perhaps a water feature would enhance an area and could become the end-point of a destination or used to welcome guests to you entrance. Gardening is like art. It is your canvas. It is what separates your garden as your space, your own haven.

     I encourage you to visit your nurseries and speak to the professionals who can answer your questions and maybe even offer some helpful suggestions. Remember be creative and really enjoy your garden.

     Red Bluff Garden Club meetings are open to the public. The program for February 22^nd is Herbs presented by Rebecca Yarrow. For more information visit the website at www.redbluffgardenclub.com or call 824-5661 or 527-5122.

Nurture Those Tiny Alligators

 

By Sharon Kessey

 

 

If you see what looks like a miniature dark alligator with tiny orange markings crawling on a stem or leaf of one of your plants, cheer it on and give it room. It’s probably a larval ladybug.

 One of the best insects to encourage in the garden is the ladybug, that roundish little beetle with the red (or orange, gray, black, yellow, brown, or pink) wing covers often with black spots. There are more than 5000 species of ladybugs worldwide and more than 500 in the United States. In California we have about 150 species, including genera such as Hippodamia, Coccinella, Harmonia, and Exochomus, among others.

A ladybug is an eager consumer of such pests as aphids, scale, and mites, and the larval form is even more voracious than the adult. So it’s important to know what its different forms look like so one of them doesn’t accidentally get squished.

The familiar female lays its tiny yellow or golden eggs in a cluster of ten or fifteen, under a leaf that is usually near some aphids. Depending on the weather the eggs hatch in one to three weeks and the larva eats the egg case then starts eating aphids.

It is this “in-star” larval stage that looks like a tiny alligator. Ranging in size from less than an eighth of an inch, it grows as it enthusiastically consumes unwanted aphids off the garden plants and molts half a dozen times over a couple of weeks, before fastening itself to a stable structure, as a roundish pupa, where it stays for another couple of weeks before metamorphosing into the adult form.

How long each stage takes depends on the temperature, humidity, food eaten, and what species it is. Usually the egg, larval and pupa stages each last from one to three weeks, and the adult lives three to nine months, or up to two years, becoming inactive at temperatures below 55 degrees F.

A ladybug is not poisonous, but if it senses danger it will release a small amount of its smelly yellow blood as a defense, or it may play dead.

Several predators will eat it anyway, if they are not offended by the color, smell, or blood -- birds such as swallows and crows; insects including dragonflies, parasitic wasps, and ants; and tree frogs, anoles, and various parasites.

Because the ladybug is one of the helpful insects to have in our gardens, we need to do all we can to encourage its survival … even when it look like an alligator.

The Red Bluff Garden Club is affiliated with Cascade District Garden Club; California Garden Clubs, Inc; Pacific Garden Clubs and National Garden Clubs Inc.

Planting New & Old Irises

 

Adapted by Kathy Bramhall

from California Garden Club’s “Garden Patch Pointers” by Robert & Hoberley Schuler

Q.  When is the best time to divide and re-plant my existing iris rhizomes and plant newly purchased irises?  How?

A.  Iris suppliers usually start shipping rhizomes in mid-July.  Rhizomes can be planted as soon as they arrive or they can be stored in a cool dry place and planted mid-October into November.  For the best selection, purchase the rhizomes as soon as they arrive at the nursery.

You can have a different variety/type of iris blooming from early spring through as late as September in our warmer climate. (More on types of iris in another article.) Some are best if grown separately and some do well mixed with other flowers.  Don’t hide them in the back row!

The Reticulate Irises (bulbous) bloom in early spring, followed by the early Bearded Iris, April and May will include the many colors of the Tall Bearded Iris. This is a good iris to interplant with other perennials.  In the fall if they are not crowded, don’t divide, just clean up the old leaves.  If the bed is crowded or has been there for three years and you are getting fewer flowers, it is time to divide and replant.

Plant new or replant old rhizomes in clumps of three, four to six inches apart, and each clump 12 to 18 inches apart for best appearance.  For old irises dig up the entire clump, break or cut off the woody rhizomes furthest from the growing shoot, leave up to three rhizomes for each shoot.  Keep the rhizomes that have long healthy roots for re-planting. (A rhizome that has produced a bloom stem will not bloom again—discard it.)  

Cut the rhizomes’ roots to about six inches. Like most bulbs, the rhizomes store food through the summer from the leaves. Existing leaves should be cut like a fan from the outside to about six inches to the top center leaves. Label if you know the names. Let these new rhizomes air dry 3-4 days.  When ready to plant, spread roots facing downward into good garden soil with good drainage.  Cover the rhizomes with only ¼” of soil—do not cover deeper.  Wait until spring to fertilize newly planted rhizomes, adding a small handful of bone meal now is helpful.  In the spring, before the iris blooms, use 5-10-10 fertilizer.  Fertilize again after they have bloomed.  Water the rhizomes after planting.

Planting iris rhizomes is a great project for adults and children. The results are glorious!

The Red Bluff Garden Club is affiliated with Cascade District Garden Club; California Garden Clubs, Inc; Pacific Region Garden Clubs and National Garden Clubs Inc.

PALM DEMOLITION

By Cathy Wilson

When my husband and I first moved to this area and found our home, it was love at first sight—almost! As we drove down the long circular driveway onto the two and half acre property, we spotted a charming cottage house located on the bend of a creek. We have always wanted water acreage and it seemed too good to be true.

 However, along one side of the driveway loomed 5 very large and un-kept palm trees.  As if this was not enough, we also noted that there were three more in a circular garden bed surrounded by the driveway. Although palm trees fit into a tropical setting, they appeared quite out of place in this yard.

Living with these palms, we learned some hard facts. Number one, they don’t provide much shade despite their towering heights and expansive fronds.  The second thing we noticed is that they create massive amounts of debris. Why is this a concern? This waste comes down easily during our frequent winds and is not recyclable green waste.

The dates these palms produce fall in huge numbers creating an uncontrollable amount of seedlings which need to be removed on a weekly basis. No amount of Roundup could control them. They are resistant to any herbicide and need to be hand pulled. Palm trees are very high maintenance.

During our second year here, we decided to have these palms pruned since it was the cheaper option over removal. They looked groomed for only one year and since this was a costly procedure our wallets were empty!  Then during a fierce thunderstorm, one was struck by lightning. Now It was apparent to us that this was finally the time to have them removed.

When having trees cut down, it is important to find licensed tree removal specialists. Another important fact to consider is the time of year. Many different kinds of animals nest in the fronds—owls, squirrels, and rats are a few of the species.

 Another factor to consider is the secondary damage to existing plants surrounding the trees to be removed. This occurs from the trampling feet of workers, dropped cut sections of the trunk or large fronds and/or from the heavy equipment being used.

While surveying the area following our demolition project, we noticed minimal carnage—one crushed rose, three downed iris and one broken water pipe. Not too bad considering their height and girth and the fact that there were eight of them.

Now our ” lightning rods” are gone and so, unfortunately it seems, is a squirrel’s nest . We have one confused squirrel who continually runs to the base of one cut palm looking skyward where once her home stood.

And yet another thing—now the once hidden propane tank is brazenly apparent—all stark white with its bright yellow cap.  Now we have another project for another time.

 Red Bluff Garden Club is affiliated with the Cascade District Garden Clubs, California Garden Clubs, Inc; Pacific Garden Clubs and National Garden Clubs, Inc.

Green Flowers

By Cathy Wilson

     Green is a soothing color that represents nature. It signifies growth, renewal, vitality and health. When we think about the color of green in the landscape, we generally think about foliage.

     We don’t often associate this color in terms of flowers. Take note, however, it is a neutral color that blends with anything and adds a relaxing atmosphere to a space. Grown in varying shapes, sizes and hues, green flowers compliment yet enhance the brighter, colorful flowers.

      Using green flowers in the landscape or in an arrangement brings a touch of the unexpected. Green flowers placed in a perennial bed with other green blooms, create a balanced yet showy look to the garden. They cause you to pause in admiration of their serene beauty.    

     Some examples of green flowers which are readily available can be found in the Echinacea family or more frequently known as the coneflowers. One is called ‘Green Envy’. The petals are a soft, lime green with a purple flush at the bases. Another is named ‘Green Jewel’ which is a shorter variety with lime flowers on sturdy stems. Also popular is ‘Merengue’. It boasts of lime green pincushion-type center with coconut downward facing petals. All of these flowers are easy to grow and produce an abundance of flowers.

     Another “must have” green flower coveted by gardeners as well as floral designers is the calla lily ‘Green Goddess’. The unusual trumpet shaped blooms have creamy white centers which blend into green tapered tips. An added bonus is their wonderful fragrance and they are also easy to grow

     Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’ is one of my favorite shrubs. It’s large, showy blooms open into a lovely lime green and then progress into white when the temperatures reach their peak. In the fall the foliage turns a brilliant red.

     Hellebore argutifolias  is an evergreen shade perennial with pale green blooms that keep their vibrant color all year long including winter. The blooms have a nodding appearance and grow one to two inches in diameter. Hellebores are self seeders.

     For Amaryllis fans there is a variety known as ‘Evergreen’.  The flowers are multiple and are in an exotic chartreuse-green.  It definitely will stop you in your tracks!

     ‘Zinnia Envy’ is perfect for all of us that need the flower power that only annuals can provide. The semidouble lime-green blooms grow two inches wide and make ideal fresh cut flowers. They attract butterflies and thrive in full sun and high heat. There could be no better flower for all of us who live here on the valley floor.

     To learn more about green flowers or other gardening tips, be sure to attend the Red Bluff Garden Club meetings held the last Tuesday of every month. The public is always welcome. For more information call 384-1913 or visit our web site at www.redbluffgardenclub.com.

     The Red Bluff Garden Club is affiliated with National Garden Clubs Inc., California Garden Clubs Inc., Pacific Region and Cascade District.

Daffodils and Other Narcissus Blooms

By Sharon Kessey

I love to see the first straight green “daffodil” leaves poking up from the soil, or find the first bunch of white “narcissus” flowers atop its tall stem, when little else is blooming. Those are sure signs of early spring and will soon be followed by “daffodils” and other Narcissus blooms.

Narcissus is the genus name for a dozen groups of flowers that include “daffodils,” “jonquils,” and “narcissus.” They all have the same basic flower structures – a perianth or outer ring of petal-like segments usually held at right angles to a central corona or cup, but they differ in the number of flowers per stem or the flower shape or color. Colors are commonly yellow or white but can include orange, red, apricot, pink, or cream.

All the Narcissus species are originally from Europe or North Africa and grow from bulbs. They are very tolerant of soil types (with good drainage) and temperature (both heat and sub-zero cold), and are not bothered by deer or gophers. Most of them bloom in late winter or spring and are dormant in the summer, so they need little summer water.

The earliest to bloom are the Tazettas, commonly called “narcissus,” which have a cluster of four to eight highly fragrant small blooms on each stem. Some have a fragrance that is noxious and better left as outside decoration. Varieties include various color combinations.

The “daffodils” have single blooms that come in several forms. A “trumpet” has a central cup longer than the perianth segments; a “large-cupped” has a cup shorter than the perianth segment but at least 2/3 its length; “small-cupped” has a cup less than 1/3 the segment length; and a “double” has a cup that is divided into segments.

Other Narcissus types include Triandrus, with several flowers per stem and cups at least 2/3 the length of the perianth segments; Cyclamineus, which have strongly recurved perianth segments; and several very small (6–12-inch) types, such as “jonquils,” “angel’s tears” and “hoop petticoats.”

All are Narcissus blooms and will brighten a springtime garden and make little work for the gardener.

Plant Narcissus bulbs about twice as deep as they are tall (large bulbs at 5-6 inches deep, small ones at 3-4 inches) and 6-8 inches apart. Once planted, they last and multiply year to year, and eventually become so crowded that they stop blooming well. Then it’s a good idea, after the leaves die down, to dig up the clump, separate the bulbs, and replant them with more space.

To see an amazing display of examples of most kinds of Narcissus, plus floral designs that include them, and a variety of educational exhibits, visit the admission-free 2011 Daffodil Festival at the River Lodge in Fortuna, on Sat., March 26, 1-5 p.m., and Sun. March 27, 10–4.

To visit with local gardeners who enjoy talking about daffodils and other plants, visit a Red Bluff Garden Club meeting, held the last Tuesday of each month at 1:00 p.m. at 12889 Baker Road. The topic for the February meeting program is Herbs.

The Red Bluff Garden Club is affiliated with National Garden Clubs Inc., California Garden Clubs Inc., Pacific Region and Cascade District.

 

Rain Brought Rose Diseases

     All the spring rains in Northern California has brought rose diseases more often seen in the wetter areas of Washington and Oregon.

     Diseases such as black spot, rose rust, powdery mildew and botrytis blight which, once established, can continue appearing in our gardens.

     How do you know if you have one or more of these diseases and what do you do to prevent them from carrying over to next spring?

     Black spot, caused by the Diplocarpon rosae fungus, shows itself as circular black spots on the leaf and frequently has fringed margins.

     Rose rust, which exhibits brown or yellow spots all over the top part of the leaves, is caused by the Phragmidium fungus.

     Powdery mildew, caused by the Sphaerotheca pannosa fungus, appears as a white powdery substance primarily on the underside of leaves. It can also attack the buds, flowers and stems.

     Botrytis cinerea is another fungal disease that can attack roses and cause the buds to drop or remain closed. It creates brown areas on the blossoms and buds.

     What can be done if your roses appear to have one of these diseases?

     Remove all infected leaves, buds, stems and flowers even if this means the plant appears completely denuded. Rake up all fallen leaves and debris from under the plant and dispose of it in the garbage. Do not put any of it in the compost pile.

     How can a future infection be prevented? Fungus spores are spread in the air and develop in a wet environment.

     Water roses at the base of the plant instead of overhead. Water in the early morning hours to give the plant time to dry out during the daylight hours.

     Provide air circulation by pruning and thinning the plants.

     When buying and planting new roses choose a rose that is considered low maintenance which means it will also be more disease resistant.

     Plant properly. Make sure the rose is put in a site with plenty of sun (at least 6 hours of full direct sun a day) with good soil and excellent drainage.

     Mix’em up. Diseases often occur when many of the same plant types are located near each other. Space roses around your garden and interplant with low-growing perennials, annuals and other plants for a healthy, diversified mini ecosystem.    

     Feed roses appropriately. Roses are hungry plants that need regular fertilizer, but not too much. Follow package directions on a rose or general-purpose fertilizer which is not too high in nitrogen. Next spring, begin a fungicide spray program as soon as new leaves appear in early spring. Bacillus subtilis is a microbial pesticide which is effective in controlling all four diseases.

     You can also hope for a more normal, dryer spring. The water is needed but maybe it won’t all come in the spring.

     Red Bluff Garden Club meetings are open to the public. The June 28th meeting will be a potluck picnic. For more information call 527-4578 or 384-1913.

     The Red Bluff Garden Club is affiliated with National Garden Clubs Inc., California Garden Clubs Inc., Pacific Region and Cascade District.

Blue Soup Surprise

By Sharon Kessey

 

The wealth of vegetables available at harvest time inspired me to start a lovely mostly-vegetable soup, melding the colors and flavors of farmers' market carrots, onions and squash with other vegetables and a few shrimp.

I sautéed some chopped celery and red onion in a stainless pot, added some water, poured in some fish sauce, and let all that heat up while I chopped and added carrots, zucchini, and some dark red cabbage, then stirred in the shrimp. Looked good.

It was about that time that the mixture started to darken. It looked like it was turning black. I wondered what was going on. It reminded me of the ink we used to put into fountain pens. It did not look appetizing.

However, it tasted good, and when I ladled it into our white bowls it lightened to a rather pretty, diluted-blue-ink color. So we ate it with some crackers, and then I put the leftovers (there was plenty left over) into a jar and into the refrigerator.

When I eyed the concoction the next day, with the bluish liquid above the settled vegetables, I puzzled over what had happened. How did combining red onion, green and white zucchini,

green celery, red cabbage, orange carrots and pink shrimp produce a blue soup?

Most likely it was the anthocyanins (plant pigments that produce reds, blues and purples) in the cell sap of the red onion and cabbage. When heated, the cells released the pigments into the water. And because anthocyanins are sensitive to pH levels, turning pink or red when acidic, and blue or purple when alkaline, the overall chemistry of my soup probably was alkaline, causing the pigments to turn the soup blue.

It reminded me of trying to affect the color of Hydrangeas by changing the pH of their soil. However, it turns out that Hydrangeas need aluminum to turn blue, and to absorb the aluminum their soil must be acidic. So to get blue flowers we add sulfur or aluminum sulfate to the soil; and to get pink or red flowers we add lime or superphosphate. It seems opposite, but when the pH of the petals is analyzed, the pink ones are more acidic than the blue. Huh?

Sometimes results are unexpected. With a plant we've fertilized or a garden-produce soup we're concocting, there's always potential for surprise. That’s one reason gardening is unendingly interesting.

If you enjoy pondering plant puzzles, perhaps you’ll appreciate the programs at the Red Bluff Garden Club’s monthly meetings, at 1:00 p.m. on the last Tuesday of each month (except Dec. and July) at 12889 Baker Road, near Walnut. The November topic is Water Gardens, and everyone is welcome.  

Red Bluff Garden Club is affiliated with the Cascade District Garden Clubs; California Garden Clubs, Inc; Pacific Region Garden Clubs; and National Garden Clubs, Inc.

     Trees and Shrubs for Winter Interest

                     

By Cathy Wilson

     Winter has arrived and our once beautiful fall trees have lost all their colorful leaves. They are no longer the stars of our gardens. Their rich fall splendor is now only a distant memory. Fall clean up is still ongoing but the chilly winds and rains have driven us inside our homes.

     As we look around our yards we can see the “bare bones” of deciduous shrubs and trees. Now is the time that our evergreen shrubs and trees become prevalent. They become the shining stars of our winter garden. They add structure and provide interest. They dominate our focus and prevent our landscape from looking bleak. Conifers and evergreen shrubs are a “must” for a balanced four season garden.

     A perfect start to add winter interest is planting a ‘Boulevard Cypress’ (Chamaecyparis). It is a dense, slow growing small tree to 6-8 feet high. It has a very neat pyramidal growth habit with soft, silvery blue foliage. It can be planted in full sun with afternoon protection or part shade. It can be used as a focal point, grouped together in plantings of three or as a medium sized border.

     Another much prized blue specimen shrub is a juniper named ‘Blue Star’ (Juniperus squamata). This plant has a low growing, rounded, compact habit. It has rich silvery blue needles year round and has slower growth habit than most junipers. ‘Blue Star’ does not shed it’s lower leaves to leave bare patches like other junipers. It is an excellent border accent along a pathway or entrance. It also needs some late afternoon protection from our extremely hot summer sun. It must be planted in well drained soil. It will not tolerate boggy or water-logged conditions.

     ‘Goshiki’ Osmanthus is not a true holly, but has the look and leaf structure of one. The Japanese name refers to the five foliage colors. The leaves have green speckles on gold foliage with the new growth being a very pretty pinkish bronze color. Plants tolerate a broad range of soils, including heavy clay. Pinch tips of new foliage to encourage bushiness. It makes a great evergreen accent. It has a slow growing compact mounding habit.

     Dwarf Alberta Spruce is a superior evergreen with dense conical form. It can be used as a single element or combined with other evergreens in shrub borders. They are outstanding when grown in pots on a porch or patio. The Dwarf Alberta Spruce is a slow grower, reaching five to seven feet in height and eighteen to twenty four inches wide when mature. It requires very little trimming to maintain its formal appearance. Follow a regular watering schedule during the first growing season to establish a deep, extensive root system. Watering can be reduced after establishment.

     To see the Goshiki Osmanthus and the Dwarf Alberta Spruce used in a garden setting, visit Cone Kimball Plaza in downtown Red Bluff. These plantings were donated and planted by the Red Bluff Garden Club, including the other flower beds, as part of one of our civic beautification projects.

     The Red Bluff Garden Club is affiliated with Cascade District Garden Clubs; California Garden Clubs, Inc; Pacific Region Garden Clubs; and National Garden Clubs In

FROSTY SURVIVORS

By Cathy Wilson

     It was 20 degrees Fahrenheit early this morning.  Armed with a steamy cup of coffee and a very warm jacket, I ventured into the yard to survey the resulting damage. First I noticed the marigolds and the lantanas along the walkway were devastated. They had survived the last few minor frosts but not this time. I dreaded approaching the citrus trees which are marginal in this zone 9 unless protected. Mine were not. First to be noted was their bright green leaves folded into themselves as if to ward off the assault. Only time will tell to see how they do. In the past they have lost all their leaves and it seemed to an eternity in the spring before they once again leafed out. As I was turning to continue, I was startled by the beauty of a single camellia bloom boasting in a shade of scarlet with a bright yellow pom-pom center. Surrounded by so much devastation this single flower’s loveliness became a wonderful focal point, more beautiful  now than ever before.  This camellia is known by the name “Yuletide’. It blooms November through January on an upright plant.

     Being encouraged, I moved on.  To my surprise there continued to be other survivors as well. I noticed a beautiful variegated ground cover seemingly untouched by the frost. It is called Silene uniflora and in the spring has lovely white pantaloon shaped flowers.  Close by mondo grass Ophiopogon ‘Nigrescens’ displayed its strappy leaves of black making its bold statement as always. It’s neighbor, also a variegated plant, Lamium, appeared flawless. 

     In different beds I spotted shrubs Osmanthus ‘Goshiki’ and  Pieris japonica ‘Variegata’ that had not only endured, but now have proven to be stand-outs this time of the year. Also noted was a wonderful, very slow growing vine named Trachelospernum. It’s tricolored leaves are brighter now than ever before. The newer growth is a brighter pink in contrast to the cream and green of the more mature leaves. It is drought tolerant and does well in full sun—a ‘must have’ for gardens in our zone.

     If the frost damage has taken the delight out of your garden, you, too, can find plants that can persist through the brutality of winter.  We all know that most perennials go dormant once the temperatures drop to emerge again the following spring; but also know, that there are others that can exist against all odds.  They bring the promise of spring to come and elevate our spirits during the dreary winter months.

     There will be no regular meeting for The Red Bluff Garden Club this month. Instead come join us at our Christmas Boutique at 216 Pine on Dec.9, 10, or 11. We will be open from 9 am until 6 pm all three days. We hope to see you there.

          The Red Bluff Garden Club is affiliated with the Cascade District Garden Club; California Garden Clubs, Inc: Pacific Region Garden Clubs: and National Garden Clubs Inc.

As the Tree Tones Turn

 

By Sharon Kessey

 

Tinges of red and purple and gold are beginning to show on the tips of leaves and the tops of trees. The nighttime temperatures are low enough, the nights long enough, and the days warm and bright enough to prompt the pre-winter changes in our plants that make the fall colors so interesting.

What we see as color is the actually the reflection of the visible light wavelengths that are not absorbed by the various pigments inside the plant cells. If no light is absorbed, all the light is reflected and the leaf or stripe or spot looks white. If all the light is absorbed, the spot looks black. If part of the visible spectrum is absorbed, the rest is reflected and appears as some color.

We normally see a spectrum of light wavelengths that ranges from about 400 nanometers and looks violet or purple, through blue, green, yellow, orange, and red wavelengths of about 700 nanometers. Waves shorter than 400 are the invisible ultraviolet light waves that can cause cell damage; those longer than 700 are the invisible infrared waves.

Most of a plant’s cells contain color pigments, and each pigment absorbs certain wavelengths from the spectrum and reflects the rest. Chlorophyll, for example, absorbs the longer blue waves and the short red waves and reflects the central green and yellow waves (so we see green and yellow-green). Carotenoids absorb the blue range of waves and reflect yellow, orange, and red-orange. Anthocyanins and betalains absorb the blue, green, and yellow waves and reflect purples and reds.

As the nights cool and lengthen, chlorophyll pigments deteriorate and their regeneration slows, allowing hidden carotenoids to show and turn certain leaves gold or bright yellow. At the same time, the plants draw the sugars that were produced by photosynthesis into their stems and roots for winter storage and use, and begin shutting off the connections between leaves and trunks. As their circulation slows, some of the remaining sugars get trapped in the leaves. When light is present those sugars are used to produce anthocyanin pigments, which appear as purple or red.

Because light is required for the anthocyanin production, the most exposed parts of the leaves, or the leaves on the top or outer edges of the tree, show the first changes in color. That’s why we see just tinges of color right now, and why, if one leaf covers part of another leaf, the exposed portion of the underneath leaf will change color, leaving the covered part green.  As long as the dry light days and the long cool nights continue without freezing, the colors will change.

The Red Bluff Garden Club is affiliated with Cascade District Garden Club; California Garden Clubs, Inc; Pacific Region Garden Clubs and National Garden Clubs Inc.

A Few Finishing Touches

                    by Kathy Bramhall

Now is the perfect time to start thinking about new garden ideas to put the “WOW” factor in your garden! Many times, a lovely garden is “all in the presentation.”

“The Creative Garden - Setting the Stage with Practical & Clever Ideas” was written to spark creative ideas for those who are passionate about “setting the stage” in their home garden.  Filled with many examples and solutions to enhance your outdoor spaces, this new picture book promises to be an inspirational springboard to get your creative juices flowing.

The 130+ full color photographs in The Creative Garden offer a wide range of options-some to add a touch of drama, others to double the garden’s view, create elegant flourishes or an eye-catching feature, camouflage less-than-lovely objects, apply new uses to old items or illustrate common-sense ah-ha’s for those difficult areas which each garden seems to have.  Also, look beyond the specific captions for nuances which will further excite your garden creativity.

This 44-page publication written by National Garden Club certified Landscape Design Consultants Nancy Burns and Poss Tarpley is an 8.5” x 11” format.  Cost is only $14 each, plus $2.50 shipping.  To order, send your check made out to:  “Landscape Design Council”, The Creative Garden, 3702 Bethwood Court, Upper Marlboro, MD 20772. 

Container Clues

By Sally Thompson, Pacific Region of Garden Clubs

 A few guiding clues for planting containers.

·      Mix container shapes, textures and heights

·      Use pots of similar colors for larger impact

·      Place a tall spiky plant off center of container.  Layer smaller plants around it.

·      Keep a full watering can handy by keeping it close to the door you use every day.  It’s a quick pick-me-up for a droopy-thirsty plant.

·      While waiting for new plants to settle in, add fast growing ses or annuals.  They tend to fill in the edges and spill over the sides.

·      Containers are great to try out an unusual color combination you may be considering for a large new flower bed.

·      A large container at the end of a pathway shows the visitor where to proceed. An eye-popping color, even without plantings, will help too.

·      At a recent garden club event table centerpieces were made in secondhand teapots with the lids propped on them, planted with flowers, grasses, or other low growing plants.

·      Express your personality with your container choice, whether it’s humorous, edible, simple or many layered.

·      Most of all, have fun!

MY FAVORITE GROUND COVERS

By

Cathy Wilson

     Ground covers are frequently used in borders, garden beds or in place of lawns. They suppress weeds, create lovely areas of color and provide less maintenance for the home owner. Groundcovers generally require less water and chemicals than a lawn. They are basically non fussy plants and are easy to grow. They have become the “new” green for the old green lawns. Many of them are even “walkable” which means they can tolerate light traffic. Many are noted for their flowers particularly in the spring. Some provide such rich texture that they appear as a thick, lush carpet.

     An excellent example of a choice ground cover for the shade is Lamium maculatum. I prefer ‘White Nancy’  for its richly variegated leaves of white and lime green with stunning white flowers. Deep rosey pink, orchid pink or purple flowers can also be selected if preferred. All bloom from spring to midsummer. They are guaranteed to brighten up any dark bed. They can be grown in hanging baskets or planted to spill over in pots. It spreads easily in the ground but is not a rampant grower. It can be removed without any difficulty. As a bonus the hairy leaves might even deter deer from eating them. Since it is of the mint family it is simple to propagate. Snip off a stem cutting, remove the lower leaves, dip in root tone, dig a hole and plant. Of course this process is even easier if done during the winter rains.

     Thymus praecox articus or CREEPING THYME is used frequently as a ground cover in the sun. It also is part of the mint family and a favorite of most gardeners. It can tolerate light foot traffic which enhances its fragrance and provides a cushion beneath your feet. There are many varieties to choose from. ‘Pink  Ripple’ has lemon scented leaves and pink flowers. There is even a non-blooming variety called ’Elfin’ which is my personal favorite as it mounds as it goes creating different heights. Aside from the creeping thymes are WOOLLY THYMES (T. pseudolanuginosus). The foliage is a soft gray which also spreads in undulating mats with pink flowers in the midsummer. It truly looks like you planted a carpet after maturity.

     When most people hear of Lysimachia, they usually associate it with Lysimachia mummularia or better known as CREEPING JENNY. ‘Aurea’  has bright yellow leaves but prefers some afternoon shade in this climate. It also sports yellow flowers and can be planted in pots or hanging baskets. I love Lysimachia punctata ‘Golden Alexander’ because it’s leaves are mottled green with yellow edging and has attractive larger bright yellow flowers spring through summer.

     There are two more noteworthy groundcovers that are not found in many gardens which appeal to me. One is Atennaria dioica or ‘Pussy Toes’. It does best in full sun and is “walkable”. It’s particularly great between pavers or in the front of a border. The other is Silene uniflora, a wonderful perennial with enchanting spring flowers resembling white pantalets. It’s foliage is variegated. It is delicate and needs to be in a space beyond foot traffic.

     The Red Bluff Garden Club is affiliated with the Cascade District Garden Club; California Garden Clubs, Inc; Pacific Region Garden Clubs and National Garden Clubs Inc.

Yes, Grow Dahlias!

by Kathy Bramhall

I’ve just returned from four days in Ferndale judging the flower show at the Humboldt County Fair.  This was great opportunity to see and judge Tuberous Begonias, Fuchsias, and Dahlias.  The first two of which we don’t grow too successfully over here.  But yes, we do manage dahlias and here are some Dahlia facts.

The dahlia is the national flower of Mexico.  Modern hybrids can be traced back to the mountain regions of Mexico and Guatemala.  Although named after the Swedish botanist, Anders Dahl, it was the Dutch who developed and hybridized dahlia tubers into what they are today. 

 

Dahlias provide color and beauty in abundance and are available in an amazing variety of color, size, and form—Singles, Formal and Informal Decorative, Peony form, Ball, Pompom, Collarette, Fimbriate  (almost fuzzy), and Cactus.  Dwarf varieties grow only 12 inches tall with 1-inch flowers, while some full-sized dahlias can reach 6 feet with 12-inch flowers!  

 

Dahlias do take some maintenance. In most cases dahlias are grown from tuberous roots, which take a year or more to develop and add to their purchase price. Look for firm tubers early in the season. Dahlias should be planted in an airy, sunny place protected from high winds.  They do best in fertile (well enriched with organic matter)-well-drained garden soil.  In the spring plant larger tubers about two weeks before danger of frost is past.  Or set out smaller tuberous roots outdoors after the last frost. Plant in a 1-ft. deep hole incorporating ¼ cup low-nitrogen fertilizer.  Cover with 3-4 inches of soil, and then add more soil as the plant grows.  Pinch to thin when they are about 6 inches above the final soil level leaving 2 or 3 of the strongest shoots.  Stake—especially in our windy valley. Water regularly—deeply and mulch to keep down weeds. 

 In cold-winter areas, dahlia tubers will freeze.  In late fall, after the tops have died down or frosted black, cut off  the tops at about six inches above the soil and then carefully dig the tubers.  Gently wash off the soil, dry, label, and store. Trim off the smallest roots and dust with sulfur powder or other fungicide to help reduce rotting.  They should be treated like potatoes; stored in a dark bin in a cool place for the winter.  In our warmer clime this only needs to be done every 3-4 years when the tubers need divided—like irises.  If  left in the ground over winter—mulch with straw. 

Enjoy these beauties.

The Red Bluff Garden Club is affiliated with the Cascade District Garden Club, California Garden Clubs, Inc; Pacific Garden Clubs and National Garden Clubs Inc.

Fresh from the Garden

                           By Diane Cleland

           It is almost time to say so long to summer and its overabundance of tomatoes, cucumbers, beans, and berries. Soon, it seems, these homegrown treasures will be only a savory memory.

            However, they do not have to be. You can dehydrate the summer’s surplus and fill the cupboard with your garden’s bounty for enjoyment from autumn right through winter.

            Dehydrating offers a host of benefits. It is considerably cheaper than buying dried fruits and vegetables in the store. In addition, dehydrated produce, which lasts for months, takes less storage space than canned or frozen food. Best of all, it keeps most of its flavor and nutritional value.

            The finished product is only as good as the original food, so start with the freshest produce available. Wash it thoroughly and cut away bruised or damaged portions. For quicker dehydration, peel the produce. Unpeeled, it can take up to twice as long to dry. Cut the produce into thin slices, generally about 1/8 to ¼ inches thick.

            The next step depends on the type of produce you are drying. Some fruits, such as apples, pears, bananas, and peaches, need to be treated to prevent discoloration. After slicing, immediately soak in a bowl of lemon, pineapple, or orange juice for five minutes. Or, soak them in a mixture of one-quart water and one-teaspoon ascorbic acid, an antioxidant used in canning.

            Fruits with a natural protective wax coating, such as grapes, blueberries, and cranberries, should be dipped into boiling water for a couple of minutes before dehydrating to crack their coating and facilitate evaporation.

            Most vegetables need to be steamed or blanched for a short time before drying to seal in their flavor and nutrients.

            Spread slices evenly in a single layer on the tray, leaving a little space between them to promote air circulation. Fruits are typically dried at 115 degrees F and vegetables at 120 degrees F.

            Drying times depend on the type of produce, thickness of the slices, and moisture content of the food, air temperature, and humidity level. Experiment and note the drying times that work best for you.

            Once your produce is completely dehydrated, package it immediately so it does not reabsorb moisture. Store the food in airtight, moisture proof containers such as glass jars with tight-fitting lids or freezer bags (regular plastic storage bags do not provide adequate protection). It is best to package food in serving-size quantities because it loses freshness each time the package is opened.

            To track the freshness of your dried produce, it is a good idea to label storage containers with the name of the food and the date it was dried. Then place the containers in a cool, dry, dark place. If moisture beads appear inside the containers, return the food to the dehydrator immediately or the produce will spoil. If stored properly, fruits will keep for up to a year and vegetables about six months, extending your harvest through the long, cold days of winter.

            Red Bluff Garden Club is affiliated with Cascade District Garden Clubs; California Garden Clubs, Inc. Pacific Region Garden Clubs; and National Garden Clubs.

Water, Water, Water

By Jolene Adams, California Garden Clubs Rose Chairman

Summer—the garden is bursting with color, the veggies are ripening, fruits are being harvested.  The roses have rushed to bring spring blooms, and now they are slowing down a bit and “recycling” their energies. New blooms are on the way!

Keep your roses mean, blooming machines by removing spent blooms, adding fertilizer, organics, and water, water, water.  In our hot climate you should just snap the blooms off at the neck, leaving as many leaves as possible to make shade for the bush.  Roses need to be fed during the summer months.  They expended a lot of energy bringing on that first and second flush of delirious blooms—now they need to replace their reserves.  A nice meal of any kind of fertilizer that has approximately a 10-10-10 rating would be appreciated (follow directions on the label). Water deeply before feeding in the summer—you want the rose well-hydrated first. Also spread some organics under the mulch and water them in.  Organics become “comfort food” as they disintegrate.

Some practical uses for your roses—

With dry weather setting in—save the petals of your blooms and make a dry sachet by laying them on a dry surface n a hot, dark area—or use your food dehydrator.

Pluck red, orange or dark lavender petals, snip off the white ‘pip’ at the base and slice into green salads. They add color, vitamins, and a touch of the exotic to your dish.  You can make rose water and add it to tea for a cool, delightfully scented beverage. Pile two cups of scented petals in a pitcher and add water. Cover. Set in the sun for several hours. Strain.  Dump the petals in the compost. Use the water in tea.  For a special event “candy” some pink rose petals or sprinkle them lightly with fine sugar and lay them on the white frosting of cakes or cupcakes.  When using roses in cooking—make sure they have not been sprayed with anything other than plain water.

Red Bluff Garden Club is “dark” in July—but we start our new year on Tuesday August 31^st.  We will be planning for the Tehama District Fair at the end of September and our Luncheon at Rolling Hills on Saturday, October 30.  The Luncheon will provide some good gardening information and good food, and good fun.  Tickets are only $25, plan to attend and bring a friend! 

The Red Bluff Garden Club is affiliated with the Cascade District Garden Club; California Garden Clubs. Inc; Pacific Region Garden Clubs; and National Garden Clubs Inc.

Fresh from the Garden

By Diane Cleland

            It is almost time to say so long to summer and its overabundance of tomatoes, cucumbers, beans, and berries. Soon, it seems, these homegrown treasures will be only a savory memory.

            However, they do not have to be. You can dehydrate the summer’s surplus and fill the cupboard with your garden’s bounty for enjoyment from autumn right through winter.

            Dehydrating offers a host of benefits. It is considerably cheaper than buying dried fruits and vegetables in the store. In addition, dehydrated produce, which lasts for months, takes less storage space than canned or frozen food. Best of all, it keeps most of its flavor and nutritional value.

            The finished product is only as good as the original food, so start with the freshest produce available. Wash it thoroughly and cut away bruised or damaged portions. For quicker dehydration, peel the produce. Unpeeled, it can take up to twice as long to dry. Cut the produce into thin slices, generally about 1/8 to ¼ inches thick.

            The next step depends on the type of produce you are drying. Some fruits, such as apples, pears, bananas, and peaches, need to be treated to prevent discoloration. After slicing, immediately soak in a bowl of lemon, pineapple, or orange juice for five minutes. Or, soak them in a mixture of one-quart water and one-teaspoon ascorbic acid, an antioxidant used in canning.

            Fruits with a natural protective wax coating, such as grapes, blueberries, and cranberries, should be dipped into boiling water for a couple of minutes before dehydrating to crack their coating and facilitate evaporation.

            Most vegetables need to be steamed or blanched for a short time before drying to seal in their flavor and nutrients.

            Spread slices evenly in a single layer on the tray, leaving a little space between them to promote air circulation. Fruits are typically dried at 115 degrees F and vegetables at 120 degrees F.

            Drying times depend on the type of produce, thickness of the slices, and moisture content of the food, air temperature, and humidity level. Experiment and note the drying times that work best for you.

            Once your produce is completely dehydrated, package it immediately so it does not reabsorb moisture. Store the food in airtight, moisture proof containers such as glass jars with tight-fitting lids or freezer bags (regular plastic storage bags do not provide adequate protection). It is best to package food in serving-size quantities because it loses freshness each time the package is opened.

            To track the freshness of your dried produce, it is a good idea to label storage containers with the name of the food and the date it was dried. Then place the containers in a cool, dry, dark place. If moisture beads appear inside the containers, return the food to the dehydrator immediately or the produce will spoil. If stored properly, fruits will keep for up to a year and vegetables about six months, extending your harvest through the long, cold days of winter.

            Red Bluff Garden Club is affiliated with Cascade District Garden Clubs; California Garden Clubs, Inc. Pacific Region Garden Clubs; and National Garden Clubs.

WINTER in the GARDEN

By Cathy Wilson

     There are not enough hours in a day during the month of December.  We are all busy with preparations for the holidays and time is precious. Most of us are exhausted, but then, there is the excitement and anticipation of visiting with friends and family which continues to motivate us.  The shared holiday season is the season for celebration and hope together.

     Often we decorate our homes extensively but not our gardens.  Almost nothing is blooming now and the majority of the plants look bedraggled. Our flower beds seem lifeless and need a dose of vitality. Yet this is the time that there are more people coming and going from our homes. So this the very time that they should feel welcomed in the holiday spirit from the moment they leave their car until they arrive at our front door.    

     What better way to enliven the pathway to our entrance than with color and lights? One needs only to go to the local nursery to survey current blooming plants such as pansies, flowering kale and calendulas. Buying six-packs of these colorful plants are not only economical but functional. They can be tucked easily into small places without disturbing other plantings.

     There are even smaller scale plants that winter well and provide not only color but interest. Design is all about the details. Look for the bare places that are now visible in your planting beds.  Remember subtle or contrasting color changes, unique textural contrasts and different forms all add intrigue to the garden.

     Sedums are an excellent choice for filling in small spaces. They can be found in several colors and textures. They adapt easily when planted. Most have fleshy leaves and are evergreen. They come in various colors of light to dark green, yellows, gray, blue, maroon and some with variegation.  They can be used as ‘spillers’ in pots or even ‘fillers’ in cracks of sidewalks, or any ‘nook and cranny’.   

      Thyme is another wonderful small plant that is not used enough in gardens. It can be used in much the same ways as sedums. These tiny plants are members of the mint family and are heavily scented. They come in various greens, grey and yellow.

     Many different varieties of Echeveria can be used in rock gardens or used as edging plantings or fill-ins for mixed containers. The most popular of these we all know as Hen and Chicks. These are surviving this winter’s frost in my yard as well as last year’s particularly harsh winter. They form rosettes of green or gray-green often including borders of deeper colors such as maroon or reds.

     Keepings leaves swept off sidewalks and steps is a safety measure. I know of many people that keep these fallen leaves in their garden beds to protect the more tender plants from frost. I am not a fan of this practice as I’ve noticed that it also provides the protection of snails and slugs. I prefer a well manicured appearance to my garden spaces.

     The next Red Bluff Garden Club meeting is Jan. 25 at 1:00 at the Union Hall at 12889Baker Rd. The program is Landscape Design for Outdoor Living by Karen McGrath. Call Tina at 529-0565 for more info or check our website at www.redbluffgardenclub.com.

     The Red Bluff Garden Club is affiliated with Cascade District Garden Club; California Garden Clubs, Inc; Pacific Region Garden Clubs; and National Garden Clubs Inc.